Overland to the Caucasus

Jeremy Brock: Overland to the Caucasus

Jeremy Brock, member and former president, kindly stepped in at short notice to give the final lecture of the current season.  This was a very fitting end to the season's lectures and Jeremy delighted his audience with the story of the eight week adventure he and his wife, Jeanette, took to Georgia, the main purpose being to observe bird life.  He took his audience on a whistle-stop tour through Spain, Italy and Turkey - lingering in Georgia - before returning to Scotland via Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary, Austria, Liechtenstein, Switzerland, France, Germany and the Netherlands.

The couple speeded through Europe, using overnight ferries to reduce travelling times, but on arrival in Turkey, Jeremy and Jeanette put their car into second-gear to enjoy the flora, fauna, architecture, archaeology and history of the northern coast of Turkey.  In this region, the couple spotted the Mediterranean Shag; Black-necked Grebe and Purple Heron, and noted the use of water buffalo to clear vegetation in the Kizilirmak wetland delta.  Farther along the coast, at Trabzon, they saw the fine Aya Sofia mosque/church with its wonderful frescos and the spectacular 13th Century Sumela monastery built into a perpendicular cliff. 

On finally arriving in Georgia, Jeremy set the scene with his observations on the country's history and geo-politics.

Following the dissolution of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s, Georgia became an independent country containing a number of separate provinces.  However, the country then became embroiled in a civil war with disputes over two regions: Abkhazia and South Ossetia, between local separatists and the majority Georgian populations which erupted into widespread inter-ethnic violence and wars.  Supported by Russia, Abkhazia and South Ossetia achieved de facto independence from Georgia, with Georgia retaining control only in small areas of the disputed territories.  These two regions are still disputed territory today with opinions differing as to whether they should be considered "Georgian" or "Russian".  Jeremy drew parallels with the involvement of the Soviet Union in the two disputed regions and the current situation in Ukraine.

Jeremy spoke about Georgia's two main cities: the capital, Tbilisi and its second largest city, Batumi, which is situated on the Black Sea coast.  Jeremy showed many slides showing the distinctive fretwork balconies on the older wooden buildings which contrasted sharply with the more futuristic modern architecture.  An ornithological highlight was seeing a flock of Rose Coloured Starlings in a suburb of Tbilisi. In Batumi Jeremy was fortunate to see a folk festival performance, with traditional Georgian dancing and folk music by performers in regional dress.  Batumi enjoys a mild climate and hosts the Botanical Gardens where many tree ferns and palm trees are in evidence.  Of particular interest to Jeremy was the location of Batumi because of its importance in ornithological terms during migration periods.  Birds of prey do not like flying over water, on their migratory journeys to and from Africa, so in Georgia, where there is a bottle-neck between the Caspian and the Black Sea, sometimes tens of thousands of birds of prey will pass over Batumi in a single day.  In this area, Jeremy was particularly pleased to see the Steppe Buzzard, and the Crested Honey-Buzzard.

After leaving Batumi, the couple set off for Svaneti in the High Caucasus - the highest mountain in Georgia is located here: Shkhara at a height of 5,068 m. Svaneti is famous for its multiple 10th-13th Century tower fortifications.  Jeremy also visited Ushguli which, at a height of 2,200 m, is the highest permanently inhabited village in Europe.  Some of the spring flowers seen in the High Caucasus were: Caucasian Oxslip; Magenta Oxslip; Pasque Flowers; Glory of the Snow; with many Gentians and Alkanet in evidence.  Some of the birds Jeremy particularly wanted to see were: Caucasian Snowcock; Caucasian Black Grouse, Güldenstät's Redstart; Great Rosefinch and Griffon Vulture but although he was unsuccessful, the audience were able to see slides of those elusive birds. However, Jeremy did manage to see the Common Rosefinch; Black Redstart; Red fronted Serin; Caucasian Chiff Chaff and Green Warbler.

Jeremy's lively story of his drive through mountain rivers in the absence of a bridge was highly entertaining.  And he was lucky enough to see the transhumance of sheep taking place along the Georgian Military Highway.

On his arrival at the Kolkheti wetlands, Jeremy explained that the name is derived from the Greek - Colchis, which gives its name to our common pheasant (Phasianus colchicus) and the Colchicum plant.  Turning to the east of the central area, Jeremy visited the Alazani area because of its unusual riverine forest habitat where he was able to see the White Tailed Eagle and the Pygmy Cormorant.  Also in the south-eastern area, the Vashlovani National Park covers an area of scrubland/ grassland with wild flower meadows containing many Caucasian species of flowers (Dittany; Bladder Pod; Pistachio; Gladiolus), along with very varied bird-life, in particular the Rufous Bush Robin.

The final area visited by Jeremy and Jeanette was the Lesser Caucasus, which although still high in altitude, consists of rolling hills and plains rather than mountain peaks. On these high altitude cold lakes, they saw the Armenian Gull, Common Tern, Dalmatian Pelican, Common Crane and Lammergeier.

On their return journey, they visited the archaeological site of Hattusas, a major city of the Hittites, dating back to 3,000 BC.  They also visited Gordian, the capital of the Phrygians, containing the burial mound of King Midas.  Jeremy told the story of the Gordian Knot, which was famously severed by Alexander the Great who promptly went on to fulfil the prophesy of conquering the whole of Asia.

The large number of questions attested to the audience's interest in this fascinating and enigmatic country and to Jeremy's skill in describing the best of the country's historic features, bird and plant life.

MK